Increases and decreases are how knitting turns into a sweater, a hat, or a sock. Once you understand them, knitting patterns that looked intimidating start to make sense: a knit raglan line is just a column of increases, a knit hat crown is just a series of decreases, and knitted lace is simply increases and decreases working together.
In this guide I will cover the most common knitting increases and decreases, which direction each one leans, and when to use it. I have linked short video tutorials for many of them so you can see each one in action.
Why Do Knitted Increases and Decreases Lean?
Most knit increases and decreases slant slightly to the left or the right. That lean matters. When you shape a sleeve, a neckline, or a raglan, knitting patterns usually pair a left-leaning stitch on one side with a right-leaning stitch on the other, so the shaping looks symmetrical and neat. Knitting patterns call these paired increases or decreases.
Knitting Decreases
K2tog (knit 2 together): right-leaning
Insert your right needle knitwise into the next two stitches at the same time and knit them together as one. One stitch is decreased, and the new stitch leans to the right. It is the most common decrease in knitting.
SSK (slip, slip, knit): left-leaning
Slip the next stitch knitwise, slip the following stitch knitwise, then insert the left needle into the front of both slipped stitches and knit them together. One stitch is decreased, and the result leans to the left. SSK is the mirror image of k2tog, so they are often used as a pair.
CDD (centered double decrease): no lean
Slip two stitches together as if to knit them together, knit the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the knit stitch. Two stitches are decreased, and the center stitch stands straight up. CDD is popular in lace, chevrons, and mitered shapes.
P2tog (purl 2 together)
The purl version of k2tog: purl two stitches together as one. It is handy for decreasing on wrong side rows.
Knitting Increases
KFB (knit front and back)
Knit into the front of the stitch as usual but do not slide it off the left needle. Then knit into the back loop of the same stitch and slide it off. One stitch becomes two. KFB leaves a small horizontal bar on the right side, which is barely noticeable in garter stitch and textured patterns.
M1L (make 1 left): left-leaning
With your left knitting needle, pick up the horizontal strand between the stitch you just worked and the next stitch, lifting it from front to back. Knit it through the back loop. Twisting the strand closes the hole and creates a nearly invisible new stitch that leans left.
M1R (make 1 right): right-leaning
Pick up the same horizontal strand from back to front, then knit it through the front loop. This new stitch leans right. M1L and M1R are often paired on either side of a marker, for example along the raglan lines of a top-down sweater.
Yarn over (yo)
Bring the yarn to the front between the needles, then knit the next stitch so the yarn wraps over the right needle. On the next row the yarn over is worked as a stitch, leaving a small decorative hole, or eyelet. Yarn overs are the building block of lace, where each one is usually balanced by a decrease to keep the stitch count steady.
M2KP: a double increase for ribbing
Some patterns need two new stitches at once in ribbing. This tutorial shows a neat way to work a double increase that keeps the rib pattern intact.
Quick Reference
- K2tog: decrease 1, leans right
- SSK: decrease 1, leans left
- P2tog: decrease 1, worked on purl rows
- CDD: decrease 2, no lean
- KFB: increase 1, leaves a small bar
- M1L: increase 1, leans left
- M1R: increase 1, leans right
- YO: increase 1, leaves an eyelet
Where You Will Use Knit Increases & Decreases
- Top-down raglan sweaters: increases on either side of four markers create the diagonal raglan lines.
- Sleeves: paired decreases taper the sleeve toward the cuff.
- Hats: evenly spaced decreases close the crown.
- Socks: decreases shape the gusset and the toe.
- Lace: yarn overs paired with decreases create openwork.
Tips for Neat Shaping
- Check which way your pattern wants each decrease to lean and follow it. Swapping k2tog and ssk can make shaping look slightly messy.
- Use stitch markers to mark where increases and decreases happen.
- Count often. Check your stitch count at the end of each shaping row so mistakes are easy to fix.
- Try a swatch first. Practicing a few paired increases and decreases on a swatch makes them second nature.
Made a mistake? Our guide on how to fix a dropped stitch can help, and if you are using a charted pattern, see how to read a knitting chart for the symbols used for each increase and decrease.
Ready to put your shaping skills to work? A top-down raglan like The Nova Sweater Knitting Pattern or The Autumn Sweater Knitting Pattern is a wonderful first sweater for practicing increases.
New to an abbreviation? Our Knitting Dictionary explains them, and our Help page is there if you have questions about a Darling Jadore pattern.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the most common decrease in knitting?
K2tog (knit 2 together). It decreases one stitch and leans to the right.
What is the difference between k2tog and ssk?
Both decrease one stitch, but k2tog leans right and ssk leans left. They are often paired for symmetrical shaping.
Which knitting increase is most invisible?
M1L and M1R are among the least visible increases because the twisted strand closes the gap.
Does a yarn over count as a knit stitch?
Yes. A yarn over adds one stitch to your count and is worked as a stitch on the next row.